Italy excursions, day trips from Rome, the Roman countryside, Umbria & Tuscany, Lakes & Italian vacation spots recommended by Italy expert, tour guide, & bestselling author of "As the Romans Do", Alan Epstein, Ph.D.

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Viterbo, Bomarzo, Bagnaia, Montefiascone. Viterbo, 90 minutes north of Rome, boasts a number of major attractions, including a well-preserved medieval center. For lunch, stop at Ristorante Tre Re for a reasonably priced, homey meal. Via Macel Gattesco, 3 (0761)304619-0761 Don't miss the famous thermal baths and spa,Terme dei Papi, where the hot springs are an enormous pool with varying temperatures, and where clusters of Italians chat. Strada Bagni, 12. (0761)3501

http://www.termedeipapi.it

Thirty minutes from Viterbo, Bomarzo has a huge park that contains a number of monster-like sculptures, and Bagnaia houses Villa Lante, adorned with beautiful gardens. The nearby hill town of Montefiascone is beautiful and serene, offering a great view of Lago Bolsena, and Piero at the cantina through the arch and on the way to the lovely park at the summit will give you a taste of his wine -- if you can charm him! Stop by for a meal at Dante in Montefiascone (0761) 826-015.

Siena and the Abbey at Monte Oliveto Maggiore. The town of Siena is ancient, yet elegant. Just two hours north of Rome, it has a feeling of the Renaissance, and is a great place to wander if you're looking for narrow streets and great shops or want to watch people in the large piazza, the Campo. On the way back to Rome, stop and have lunch in the garden of the Abbey, (Take Route 451 from Route 2 at Buonconvento), through whose grounds you can also stroll. The trattoria is called La Torre (0577) 707-022.

Amalfi Coast -- Positano and Ravello.
Many consider the Amalfi Coast, three hours south of Rome, to be the most beautiful spot in Italy. Spectacular views accompany charming little villages, among which Positano and Ravello are my favorites. In Ravello, don't miss seeing Villa Cimbrone and taking a meal or spending the night at Villa Maria (089) 857-255.

Castelli Romani. Seventeen towns make up this interesting area just 15 miles southeast of the city. Well known among the Romans as an area with top-notch restaurants, there are two volcanic lakes, and the towns of Frascati, Nemi, and Rocca di Papa are especially interesting. For a bit of nature and history, hike through the remains of Tuscolo, an ancient hill town conquered and destroyed by the Romans. Dine at Al Tinello (06) 945-8395, or La Briciola (06) 945-9338, two of my favorites, or have Leornardo make you an incomparablecappuccino with a home-made cornetto at the Jolly Bar in Piazza G. Bruno in Grottaferrata.

Tivoli -- Villa D'Este and Villa Adriana. One hour from Rome brings you to two fascinating historical villas -- the Renaissance Villa D'Este, with the most fanciful fountains imaginable, and Villa Adriana, Hadrian's house of two thousand years ago. A meal outside at Sibilla (0774) 335-281, in the company of ancient temples, will round out the day.

Lago Bracciano and Cerveteri. An hour north of Rome, the town of Anguillara is perfectly perched to offer a great view of the lake, while Trevignano is hip and has a long lakefront. Cerveteri, a few miles south, was an important Etruscan city 2500 years ago, and boasts a major collection of burial grounds, called necropoli. For a good meal, try the Casina Bianca, (06) 999-7231, or the Chalet del Lago (06) 996-07053.

Sperlonga and San Felice Circeo. In the summer, the beaches of Sabaudia are well worth the trip. The smaller hill town, Circeo, has lovely views of the ocean and a relaxed atmosphere, while larger Sperlonga dates from ancient Greek times and has a lively piazza at the summit. In Sperlonga Gli Archi, (0771) 54300, is a bit expensive, but the courtyard setting is beautiful.

Ostia. The ancient port town of Ostia sits where the River Tiber meets the Mediterranean, and was the dropping off point for Imperial Rome. The ruins are extensive, entire streets through which one can walk, imagining an ancient Roman town. In the summer many outdoor programs take place at night. Try the spaghetti in cartoccia, seafood in tomato sauce, at Il Pescatore in Ostia, (06) 650-5189.

Sermoneta, Norma and Ninfa. A little of Tuscany south of Rome. High on a hill sits the stone-bound town of Sermoneta. Norma, larger and more varied, dominates another hill, while Ninfa is an extensive garden that once housed an entire village that was destroyed centuries ago. Ninfa is open only on the first weekend of every month from April through October. A spring visit is advised. Il Mulino in Sermoneta has great food and a cozy atmosphere, (0773) 30009.

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